Bomber vs Sketchy Bolts

Posted on by krystlesimon
Examples of newer and older bolts on a presentation board by American Safe Climbing Association, in collaboration with Access Fund.
Examples of newer and older bolts on a presentation board by American Safe Climbing Association, in collaboration with Access Fund.

You’re climbing up a route, and suddenly you notice the next bolt looks different from the previous ones you clipped into. Is it super rusty? A spinner? Does it look warped or modified? Or does it just seem “off”? Whatever the reason, it’s crucial to identify these variances and be sure the bolt is safe enough to protect you on a whipper. Here are some examples:

SS wave bolts with chain anchors on the side of mountain.
SS wave bolts with chain anchors on the side of mountain.
⅜’’ compression bolt with rappel ring and a missing bolt on the wall.
⅜’’ compression bolt with rappel ring and a missing bolt on the wall.
Missing bolts on the wall, one has been cut off and the other is completely removed.
Missing bolts on the wall, one has been cut off and the other is completely removed.
½ SS wave bolts with mussy hook anchors on the side of mountain.
½ SS wave bolts with mussy hook anchors on the side of mountain.
Damaged ½ SS wave bolt that is smashed flat against the wall.
Damaged ½ SS wave bolt that is smashed flat against the wall.
Damaged ½ SS wave bolt anchors that are smashed flat against the wall, a wave bolt below that appears to be in normal condition.
Damaged ½ SS wave bolt anchors that are smashed flat against the wall, a wave bolt below that appears to be in normal condition.
An anchor at the top of a mountain. The left wave bolt is smashed flat against the wall, the wave bolt on the right appears to be in normal condition.
An anchor at the top of a mountain. The left wave bolt is smashed flat against the wall, the wave bolt on the right appears to be in normal condition.

There are standards to how we use bolts and fixed anchors, e.g. using quickdraws or a quad to prevent excessive wear on fixed anchors–all of which are intended to maintain the integrity of the material for years to come. However, over time all bolts will need replacement, and it’s our responsibility to report these to the proper channels such as BadBolts.com, who facilitate repairing for climbing anchors and bolts. Additionally, bolts that have been abused (smashed in or completely cut off) should also be reported as well.

Let’s keep our local crags safe y’all!

Big thanks to bolt replacers out there and to American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) for supplying bolts and Access Fund the bolt pullers!